Thanks to Ginger for sending this to me. This gives an excellent idea what many surfers actually see when surfing waves like this. Remember, it’s not just one wave, but there is wave after wave after wave after wave after wave after wave after wave after wave, and even though you may have successfully surfed your wave, you then have to paddle out through all the other incoming waves.
Oh, and then there’s the rocks on either side of the bay. Oh, and then there’s many other surfers and boards you can run into. Oh, and then there’s all the wave water that funnels up between the rocks and onto the beach and sometimes runs onto the highway behind the beach, so besides surfers crashing, you often have tourists, who think they know what they’re doing, standing on the beach and getting sucked into the ocean by the IMMENSE volume of ocean foam.
What a treat to live (and surf) Hawai’i!!!
This was from O’ahu, North Shore.
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